Formulation Friday
PEPTIDE CLOUD Hand Lotion
A lightweight yet deeply moisturising anti-aging hand treatment
designed to smooth the appearance of fine lines while keeping
hands soft and nourished. We call it a “cloud lotion” because
of its fluffy, airy texture.
This formula is part of a series of products you can make with
Copper Peptide Powder when it is first made into a stock solution
for use in your formulations.
01 Formulation
| Heat Water Phase | |
| Part A | |
| Glycerine | 5% |
| Xanthan Gum Clear | 0.2% |
| Part B | |
| Distilled Water | 48.3% |
| Rose Geranium Hydrosol | 20% |
| Niacinamide | 2% |
| D-Panthenol | 2% |
| Heat Oil Phase | |
| Glyceryl Stearate & PEG-100 Stearate | 5% |
| Macadamia Nut Oil | 5% |
| Refined Shea Butter | 3% |
| Stearic Acid | 2% |
|
Sky Blue Mica
To complement the blue peptide theme |
Speck
approx. 0.5–1 g |
| Cool Down Phase | |
| Copper Peptide Stock Solution made from Copper Peptide Powder | 5% |
| Geranium Standard Oil | 1% |
| Saliguard BDHA | 1% |
| Vitamin E Natural | 0.5% |
Materials
- 3 × Glass Beakers — 250 ml, 600 ml and 50 ml
- Silicone Spatula
- Stainless Steel Mixing Scoop
- Frosted Lotion Tubes
- pH Testing Strips
- Thermometer
- Digital Scale
- Foil
- Stick blender
- Pan with water for use as a double boiler
- Nitrile Gloves
Recommended for sanitising your workspace:
70% Isopropyl Alcohol
and a
Mist Spray Bottle
.
Before you begin: Ensure that all packaging, equipment and your workspace are clean and sanitised. Put on nitrile gloves and cover your hair before formulating.
02 The Method
Water Phase
01
Part A: In the smallest beaker, hydrate the Xanthan Gum into the Glycerine. Stir until the Xanthan Gum powder has dissolved. Set aside and proceed to the next part.
02
Part B: In the medium-sized beaker, mix the Distilled Water with the D-Panthenol. Stir until the Panthenol has completely dissolved.
03
Combine Parts A and B by pouring the Xanthan Gum mixture into the distilled water mixture. It will thicken slightly. Stir, cover with foil and set aside while you proceed to the next phase.
Oil Phase
04
In the larger beaker, combine all ingredients listed under the Heat Oil Phase.
05
Place both the water-phase and oil-phase containers into a pan of water and heat gently on the stove using the double-boiler method. The water level should be sufficient to cover the level of the ingredients in the oil-phase container.
06
When the oil-phase ingredients have melted, remove from the heat and quickly pour the water phase into the oil phase. Stir briefly with the spatula as the mixture forms and turns into a blue, milky liquid.
07
Use a stick blender to emulsify the mixture. Begin with short bursts, gradually blend for longer periods, and continue for up to two minutes.
08
Allow the mixture to cool while stirring occasionally. After approximately five minutes, blend again with the stick blender and scrape down the sides to keep the mixture even.
09
Allow the mixture to cool further, stirring with a spatula in between.
Cool Down Phase
10
When the mixture is below 40°C, add the Cool Down Phase ingredients. Give the mixture one final blend using the stick blender.
11
Check the pH. The target range should be between pH 5 and 6.
12
Allow the mixture to cool entirely before covering it with cling wrap. Leave it overnight so that it can thicken further and reach its final viscosity.
13
The following day, transfer the lotion into the squeeze bottles using a piping method or a large syringe. Label and store.
Formulating Notes:
01
Leave the mixture overnight so you can see its final texture before packaging.
02
This formula can be customised with different actives, such as Hyaluronic Acid or extracts of your choice.
03
You may use another lightweight carrier oil of your choice.
04
Maintain the final formula between pH 5.0 and 7.0. Below pH 5.0, copper ions can dissociate from the tripeptide complex, rendering it inactive.
05
Peptides are heat-sensitive. Add the Copper Peptide Solution during the cool-down phase at or below 40°C.
06
Avoid chelating ingredients such as Disodium EDTA in the same formula, as they can strip the copper from the peptide.
07
Avoid combining Copper Peptides with high concentrations of direct Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) or AHAs, which can disrupt the peptide structure.
How to use:
- Apply to your hands as needed at any time of the day.
- Use frequently for best results.
Safety & Storage:
- Conduct a patch test before first use.
- Contains Macadamia Nut Oil.
- Store away from direct sunlight and heat.
- Recommended usage within 3 months. Shelf life may be up to 12 months when preserved correctly.
FORMULATION DISCLAIMER All recipes are provided for educational purposes by Zandy Sutton and Refined Naturals. As a self-taught formulator, Zandy Sutton's guidelines are based on personal experience. The formulations and recipes are intended for informational and educational purposes only. Please conduct full stability and pH testing before personal use or distribution. Refined Naturals will not be held liable for any adverse reactions, damages, or losses resulting from their use or misuse. Colour and consistency may vary from batch to batch. For external use only. Do not ingest. Avoid contact with eyes. Discontinue use if irritation occurs.
