Formulation Friday

EASY PEPDITE
GEL CREAM


A luxurious, ultra-hydrating copper peptide gel cream with the simplest ingredients. This formula is part of a series of products you can make with Copper Peptide Powder when it’s made into a solution that you can use in your formulas.

formulation

Grams/% Ingredients
HEAT WATER PHASE
73.5 Distilled Water
5 Propanediol 1.3
2 D-Panthenol (Powder)
2 Niacinamide
2 Sepimax Zen
HEAT OIL PHASE
5 Fractionated Coconut Oil
2 Cetyl Alcohol
COOL DOWN PHASE
4 Copper Peptide Stock Solution
3 Dimethicone 350
0.5 Vitamin E Natural
1 Euxyl P9010

Materials

Glass Beaker X2
Silicone Spatula
Stainless Steel Mixing Scoop (to scoop ingredients)
Airless Bottle (for packaging)
pH Testing Strips
Digital Scale
Foil
A stick blender
A pan with water to use as a double boiler for heating

Recommended for sanitizing your workspace:
70% Isopropyl Alcohol
Mist Spray Bottle (to pour the Isopropyl Alcohol in and spray on surface)

The Method

Prior to formulating, ensure that all your packaging, equipment and workspace is clean and sanitized. Put on nitrile gloves and cover your hair.

Instructions

Water Phase

01

Dissolve the powders in the Distilled Water. Stir until both powders have completely dissolved.

02

Follow with the Propanediol and sprinkle Sepimax Zen (do not stir), then cover the beaker with foil and set aside.

Oil Phase:

03

Combine the ingredients under the oil phase together, in a separate beaker.

04

Heat both containers gently in the stove using the double boiler method, for up to 10 minutes. When the ingredients in the oil phase have become all liquid, remove the containers and turn off the stove.

Emulsifying:

05

Pour the water contents into the oil contents. With a stick blender, immerse the ingredients to emulsifying them, starting with short bursts and gradually longer for up to 2 minutes.

06

The mixture will thicken, with a wobble texture. Scrape the sides and immerse again, ensuring there are no lumps left.

07

Allow the mixture to cool down, while stirring with a spatula in between.

08

When the mixture is below 40C, add in the Cool Down Phase ingredients. Give it one final blend, using the stick blender. This will change the texture, making it more fluid. That’s the texture we want for the airless packaging.

09

Leave the mixture to cool entirely before covering it with a cling wrap. Leave it overnight for it to thicken some more and reach its final viscosity.The next day, decant to the airless bottles. Label and store 

Formulating Notes

• Leave the mixture overnight so you can see its final texture before packaging, because once you package and close the airless bottle. It won’t open again.

• This formula is customizable with different actives like Hyaluronic Acid or any extracts for your choice.

• In your formulations, maintain your final formula between 5.0 and 7.0. Below pH 5.0, the copper ions can dissociate from the tripeptide complex, rendering it inactive

• When formulating, note that peptides are heat-sensitive. Add your copper peptide solution at the cooldown phase at or below 40°C

• Avoid chelating ingredients like Disodium EDTA in the same formula, as they will strip the copper from the peptide

• Also do not combine copper peptides with high concentrations of direct Vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid) or AHAs, which can disrupt the peptide structure.

• Maintain the pH of the Essence between 5.5-6 for skin compatibility and ingredient stability.

Usage

01

Apply on your face as part of your moisturizing skincare routine.

02

It’s fragrance free – making it suitable for all skin types, including sensitive

03

Can be used mornings and evenings

04

A visible difference can be seen with consistent use

Safety Note

• Conduct a patch test before first use
• Store away from direct sunlight and heat
• Recommended usage within 3 months (shelf life up to 12 months when preserved correctly)

THIRD PARTY DISCLAIMER
All recipes are provided for educational purposes by Zandy Sutton. As a self-taught formulator, these guidelines are based on personal experience. Please conduct full stability and pH testing before personal use or distribution. Not for ingestion.

RFND DISCLAIMER
The formulations and recipes provided by Refined Naturals are intended for informational and educational purposes only. Refined Naturals will not be held liable for any adverse reactions, damages, or losses resulting from their use or misuse. For external use only. Perform a patch test before first use. Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.